| Getting There , Around and Away |
| By air Vietnam Airlines has a near-monopoly on domestic flights, which are relatively expensive. Domestic flights are available everyday. It's usually faster to buy a ticket from an airline office rather than a travel agent. The departure tax on domestic flights is VND20,000 (US $1.43). By train The train from Ho Chi Minh City to Hanoi stops at various stations and provides an opportunity to enjoy the changing scenery. The train can be even slower than bus travel, but it is more relaxed and you're likely to have decent legroom. Air-conditioned express trains take 36 hours to complete the itinerary. Except during the winter in northern Vietnam, non-air-conditioned trains can be very hot despite electric fans, even at night. Petty theft can be a problem, especially in budget class. In some areas, children throwing things at carriages, everything from rocks to cow dung, is another problem, and you are advised to keep the metal shield on the window in place. By bus and car Ramshackle, slow and hugely overcrowded buses run just about everywhere in the country, at rock-bottom fares. Bus travel is definitely uncomfortable and frustrating, but if you treat it as a social function rather than a means of getting from A to B, you should survive with your sanity intact. Most long-distance buses leave early in the morning, so it's a good idea to buy your ticket the night before. There are express buses, but few are really fast. Count on an average speed of 50kmh for a genuine express bus, and 25 to 35kmh for others. Public minibuses suffer the same drawbacks as buses. The alternative, used by many foreigners, is to charter an entire minibus. This allows a group to dictate it own schedule and itinerary, as well as avoid overcrowding. Budget hotels and cafes are the best places to rent these minibuses. There is also a well-established tourist mini-bus system running the length of the country, organized by a group of cafes which sprung up serving backpackers. In Hanoi, shuttle buses are available to passengers between Noi Bai Airport and Vietnam Airlines’ main booking office (1A Quang Trung Street, near Hoan Kiem Lake) at a price VND40,000 (US $2.85 in November 1999) per expatriate, and VND20,000 per Vietnamese citizen. Rented cars, which usually come with drivers, are available at reasonable prices. While, in theory, international driving licenses are valid in Vietnam, the traffic in large cities and the haphazard observance of rules of the road can overwhelm the first-time visitor. In accidents, the larger vehicle, or the party with more resources, is generally expected to accept liability. Therefore, it is prudent to leave the driving to a native who is more able to negotiate his way out of a dispute. The Vietnamese drive on the right-hand side of the road. Using taxis, motorcycles and bicycles Taxicabs, motorcycles, and bicycles can be easily hired. Taxi fares start at VND 14,000 (in Hanoi) or VND 12,000 (in Ho Chi Minh City) for the first 2 km. Thereafter, you will be charged for about VND 1,500/250m, or VND 6,000/km. In Ho Chi Minh City, taxi fare from the airport to the center of District 1 (the main business district) is around VND 60,000 (US $4.30). Traffic jams can cause delays and resulting increases in fares. On longer trips (over 20 km), you should consider pre-negotiating a fixed fare rather than using meter charges. Taxis from the airport in Hanoi will generally accept VND 140,000 or US $10 to any destination in the city. The Airport Taxi Company (tel: 873-3333) offers the same fare for pickups in the city to the airport. You may rent a motorcycle if you have an International Driver's Permit endorsed for motorcycles. In larger cities, the typical motorbike rental fee is US $6-12 per day. There have been reports of the lessor stealing the bike using his own key, and charging the customer an outrageous sum as compensation. If you have left your passport as security, you won't have much choice but to pay up. Traveling through Vietnam by bicycle is worth considering, though traffic is still a hazard on many highways without wide shoulders. Trains and buses will carry your bike when you want a break. The cyclo, a three-wheeled vehicle, is perfect for those who wish to move slowly and enjoy a city tour, especially in Hanoi. There is no fixed rate for cyclo fare, rather you will have to ask and bargain with the cyclist before jumping onto his vehicle. Cyclo fare is generally approximately 30-40% of taxi fare. The Vietnamese government has announced plans to phase out cyclos in a cosmetic bid to improve Vietnam's image. If you're in a hurry and have nerves of steel, try flagging down any passing motorbike. Many people will be happy to give you a lift for a fee a little higher than the equivalent cyclo fare. By boat Many resort areas are served by ship routes at reasonable prices. Four scheduled boat trips (1-1/2 hours each way) a day are available from Ho Chi Minh City to Vung Tau and back. Ha Long City and Cat Ba Island are also connected by boat. |
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